THE BICI GUIDE TO CYCLING NUTRITION
Cycling is a sport that demands a lot from your body. Whether you're a casual rider or an aspiring pro, what you eat and drink can significantly impact your performance...
Learn what a cycling power meter is, how to use power zones and FTP to train better, and which type is right for you. From Bici in Vancouver.
You've done the rides. You've put in the hours. But if you're training without a power meter, you're working off feel and guesswork. There's a ceiling to how far that gets you. The problem with feel alone is that it shifts. A bad night's sleep, a stressful week, too much coffee. Your perception of effort changes day to day even when your fitness doesn't. So you push too hard on days you should be recovering, and hold back on days you could be making real gains. Over time, that adds up to a lot of wasted training.
A cycling power meter measures the actual work you're putting into the bike, in real time, in watts. It gives you a number that doesn't care how your legs feel or how hard the wind is blowing. It's the most direct way to know whether a session actually hit the target, and to build training that stacks properly over weeks and months.
A power meter is a device built into your drivetrain (crank, pedal, or spider) that measures torque and cadence, then calculates power. That number shows up on your head unit instantly.
Speed changes with wind and gradient. Heart rate lags behind your effort by 30 seconds or more. Power is immediate. Push harder, the number goes up right now.
Power and heart rate aren't measuring the same thing. Heart rate tells you how your body is responding to effort. Power tells you what you're actually doing to the bike. On a cold, wet November ride here in Vancouver your heart rate might sit 10 beats lower than it does in July at the exact same effort. But 250 watts is 250 watts. Using both together gives you the full picture.
"I've been running Favero Assioma Duo pedals for the past two years and I love being able to swap them between my road bike and my gravel bike. It's way more cost-effective than buying a separate power meter for each of my bikes! And I like knowing that they'll be compatible with any future bikes I get."
"I've spent most of my time riding using a single sided power meter. I started with a Gen-1 Stages many years ago, and have had lots of other Stages and 4iiii's ever since. I've experimented with double sided units from some major brands but I always end up just defaulting to a single-sided unit since I don't end up using all the fancy metrics that more expensives units give me."
Single-sided meters measure one leg and double the number. If one leg is stronger than the other, this can introduce minor inaccuracies in your total power reading. For most riders though, it's perfectly sufficient for structured training. Your zones are your zones, your FTP is your FTP, and your progress is trackable ride over ride.
Dual-sided meters measure each leg independently and give you a true left/right power balance. That's the accuracy gold standard, and the only way to identify a genuine pedalling imbalance. That data is especially valuable if you're coming back from an injury on one side, working with a coach on technique, or just want the cleanest numbers possible.
If you're newer to training with power or working with a single bike and a clear budget, single-sided gets you everything you need to train effectively. If you're chasing performance at a higher level or want the full picture of how your body is working on the bike, dual-sided is worth the investment.
If you ride more than one bike, cleat compatibility gets complicated fast. The Favero Assioma PRO line solves that with three models built around different platforms, so you can match the pedal to the bike rather than compromising on either. All three models come in both single-sided and dual-sided options.
Uses a Look Keo-compatible cleat. If you're on a road bike with Look cleats, this is your model. It also has the lowest stack height of any pedal-based power meter currently available.
Built around Shimano SPD-SL. Same road use case as the RL, different platform. If your road shoes are set up with SPD-SL cleats, this is the one to go with.
Uses SPD cleats, making it the right choice for gravel. SPD is more walkable, handles the dirt better, and is standard on most gravel and adventure shoes.
All three models share the same spindle. That's worth knowing if you're running both a road bike and a gravel rig: you can pick up a second pedal body for the other bike rather than buying two complete sets. One spindle moves between bodies as needed, or leave a set on each bike and you never have to think about swapping again. Either way, your power data stays consistent across everything you ride.
When selecting a power meter, consider factors such as compatibility with your bike's crank model, your budget, preferred data measurement method (e.g., single-sided vs. dual-sided), and whether you prioritize ease of installation or comprehensive power measurement.
Most pedal-based power meters are compatible with popular cleat systems such as LOOK KEO, Shimano SPD-SL, and Speedplay Zero. However, it's essential to check compatibility with your specific cycling shoes before making a purchase.
While some power meters, like pedal-based options, offer the flexibility to be easily transferred between bikes, others, such as crank arm-based and crank spider-based units, are specific to the crank model and may require additional installation steps or adjustments when switching between bikes.
Power meters vary in accuracy depending on the type and brand. Generally, modern power meters provide reliable and precise data for performance analysis and training purposes. However, factors such as calibration, environmental conditions, and individual riding dynamics can influence accuracy. Regular maintenance and calibration can help ensure optimal performance.
Choosing a power meter comes down to your crank compatibility, pedal setup, budget, and how many bikes you're running. There's no single right answer, but there's usually a clear best fit for your situation.
Swing by the shop at 1497 Adanac and we'll help you sort it out.
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